Makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged
We've just sent you an email to. Click the link to create a password, then come back here and sign in. Check that the makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged is not caught on anything at makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged back of the machine. Sometimes filament can jump off the spool and wrap around the spool holder. Also check the spool is not stuck and can rotate freely.
Make sure you keep the filament tight on the spool as you do this so that it does not get tangled. Is the build plate too close to the extruder? If they're too close together, there may not be room for the makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged to come out of the extruder.
This is a likely culprit if your extruder stops extruding during the first or second layer of a build. Is your extruder motor rotating? It is sometimes hard to see if it is rotating as it moves slowly so use a marker to draw a line across the end of the motor shaft visible at the back of the motor. When the extruder is running, you should be able to see the shaft turning.
It may sometimes reverse direction in order to retract filament, but during extrusion it should makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged moving at a slow but constant rate. If it does not turn, or stops turning, please open a support ticket and we'll help you figure out what's going on.
You can see here how to upgrade firmware on your MakerBot. You will probably need to take the makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged tube out of the extruder and push the filament down to get it extruding. Once it is extruding leave it for a minute or so then stop the process. Now try your print again and see how you get on. If while you are loading the filament you notice it is difficult to load or you notice that the plastic curls upwards as it is extruded from the nozzle then you may have a partial blockage.
You can see what to do for a blocked nozzle here. Another thing which can cause extrusion issues is the drive gear clogging with material. You can see here how to clean your drive gear Is the fan on the front of the extruder facing the right direction. It should be blowing air over the heat sink and not out towards you. One way to check is to put you face close to the fan and see if you can fee air blowing onto your face.
If you can then it is the wrong way around. What settings are you using for your 0. When you print at 0. If you start having success you can try increasing the speed. New and returning users may sign in Sign in prestine. Your email address Check! I agree to the terms of service. Signed in as Sign out. Sign in Sign in Sign up Cancel.
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Once the printer is preheated, grab the filament with your left hand and push down on the black drive gear block with your right hand. Push down on the filament until you see plastic melting out of the nozzle. Pull up quickly on the filament to release it from the machine. This should grab the clog. Use the side cutter to clip off the end of the filament that contains the clog. Repeat this process 3 to 5 times.
Print a 10 to makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged minute test print to make sure your printer is working properly. Repeat the makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged down, pull up process 3 to 5 times.
Repeat the push down, pull up process another 3 to 5 times. If this does not solve your makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged issue, either purchase a replacement nozzle or contact us to walk you through how to fix your nozzle: This really works well. Before this video i tried before this video.
But Pla at really got out a piece of junk. I don't have the release on mine like yours so I let it clipped it as close to extruder as possible and let it run through. Now it won't load at all. Here is 3d printer filament Spool Holder makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged.
We have had constant clogging issues with our Replicator 2 printer. We have had to replace out the Heater Block Assembly many makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged with a Fargo one I think we have purchased Fargo assemblies within a year or sobut the issue keeps arising. After a quick inspection, it seems like the plastic is expanding in the thermal barrier tube which prevents plastic from makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged through the tube.
Do you have any suggestions? We are running DeltaMaker Black 1. Fargo 3D Printing The heatsink fan was making some odd noises so I replaced it and unclogged the printing nozzle. Since then, we have ran the printer for about 10 hours or so without a problem, however, I'm curious to see how it performs after another few weeks of regular use. One thing I have noticed is, the side blower fan does not turn on, ever. I've already ordered a replacement from MakerBot so I will replace it out once it arrives.
I was able to probe the output connector of this blower fan on the main board, and never saw a voltage reading above 0. The main board was replaced a little over a year ago purchased from MakerBot directly.
Do you have any suggestions regarding this issue? It sounds like you are suffering from heat creep. It seems that your front cooling fan is either malfunctioning or is installed backwards. It should be blowing air AT your heatsink, not sucking air away from your heatsink. Does it seem that your fan is functioning correctly? Here is cheap Filament Spool Holder www.
I'm going to have to get a new nozzle. Do you have any advice for how to replace it? Also, is the nozzle the only thing that needs replacing? You will want to have the printer preheated and will also want an adjustable wrench to hold the heater block in place while you unscrew the nozzle. I would highly recommend starting with an entire fresh Replicator 2 Heater Block Assembly: Thank you for your video!
I figured I'd be using my dual printer as a single one until I watched your video. That makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged a great tip, I have hours on my 2X and this improved the performance. When i load filament, i have to pull out line and reload then it will drool again.
Antonio, I know that this is an old question, but it sounds like you are suffering from heat creep. It is very likely that your fan isn't spinning fast enough or that it is facing the wrong way. It should be blowing air INTO the heat sink to function properly.
It just keeps giving me an option to cool down. Should I just wait it out? We just put an upgraded thermocouple on there, as well. Some clogs are simply uncloggable. The printer won't go over C as there are plastic components in the extruder that will soften or melt above C. What a great tip for clogged nozzle! My rep 2x's nozzle is now working, and I use ABS.
Thank you very much! I'm assuming this is for ABS, correct? The MakerBot Replicator 2 indicates a higher temperature than it actually is so C on the Replicator 2 is really more like C. I don't need the block I need the thermocouple that is screwed into the block.
I broke mine off. When they are back in stock, you can find them here: Broke off the tiny brass hex head that goes into the heater block. The one that threads in. Yep, if this doesn't do the trick a new nozzle should: You sir, are an angel.
Thank you very much. Worked wonders on my Replicator 1 and prevented me from replacing a nozzle to have it manually declogged. Unclogging Maketbot Replicator makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged. Cleaning out a clogged nozzle! Shawn Mendes - Youth Lyric Video ft. Stirile Kanal D How to Clean a 3D Printer Nozzle. How to properly change the filament on the Makerbot Replicator 2. How disassemble your Makerbot Replicator 2 print head.
Build your own 3D Printer:
So you are considering buying a Makerbot Replicator 3D printer to help you in your engineering work? I will tell you why here. Before we start I would like to stress that I am not advocating against 3D printing in general but only sharing my experience with Makerbot Replicator printers. Also, I would like to focus here on engineering models which bring some more complex issues compared to household or creative 3D printing.
For example, can you make a valve with a 3D printer? How do you accurately assemble models together? Can you use 3D printing to replace expensive laboratory parts such as opto-mechanical devices? It is for these precise reasons that I bought a 3D printer and I was quite enthusiast at that time I pre-ordered my Makerbot Replicator Mini months before its release and was one of the very first to receive it.
So if you are thinking about buying a Makerbot Replicator 3D printer for engineering purposes, please read this carefully before settling your choice.
One of the most disappointing things about the Makerbot Replicator 5 th generation is their so-called smart extruder. The extruder is the part of makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged FDM printer that actually takes the filament, pushes it into an makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged chamber before letting it go through the extruder nozzle which create the very thin filament used for printing.
Because fused deposition modelling involves melting a polymer and extruding it through a very small orifice, it will clog after some time. And when it does, you basically have to do some maintenance on your printer. The very problem with the Makerbot smart extruder is that it was not designed for maintenance but rather for easy replacement. Obviously, Makerbot will not tell you that when you are buying the printer — they leave you the surprise for later.
And when your extruder will clog for the first time, you will discover a whole new world of troubles when searching on the Internet.
A lot of people are complaining about how frequent their smart extruder clogs. In my experience, it is much makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged than that and was about only hours of working.
I would also like to comment here that this is only an average based on personal experience and that it is not a guarantee that your smart extruder will last for at least hours. For instance, I have bought a replacement extruder from Makerbot which clogged after printing only 10 grams of PLA!
Hopefully, Makerbot accepted to exchange the extruder for a new one due to EU warranty. To give you an order of magnitude, my models are relatively small and take from 2 to 4 hours to print so makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged makes only 25 to 50 small 3D parts per extruder. Yes, you read it correct: Hopefully, you can find similar extruder at 3 EUR on e-bay and they really look the same.
So I tried the whole procedure which worked fine at first and I managed to print one model. But when I tried to print a second one, the extruder clogged again. So I tried the cleaning procedure one more time makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged the extruder now clogged in the middle of the printing.
As a consequence, I would not be so confident about the smart extruder clogging issues having a definitive solution. Fitting is, in my experience, the most frequent cause of having to discard correctly printed models.
When designing your part, you specify some width and height for makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged features of your model that are relatively precise. When working in a mechanical shop, this is usually machined using a reamer which will ensure, when properly used, that the hole will satisfy the tolerance.
So, when inserting, say, a 3h7 pin whose diameter is toleranced between 2. This will always be makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged case, even if your part is produced in the USA, China or in Japan by different operators.
But things do not work like that when printing 3D makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged. When printing, you first produce a 3D model usually a stereolithography. With Makerbot, this transformation occurs in the Makerbot Desktop program. The problem is that Makerbot Desktop does not, at the moment of this writing, take into account any analysis of the shape of the elements to ensure fitting and tolerances.
The question is by how much? And there is no simple answer to that. Depending on the software which transformed your design file into machine instructions, your hole will not be of the same size. And even worse, I have experienced that different version of the Makerbot Desktop software will not print models the same way!
The consequence is that you have to include some knowledge of how your printer actually does its job when designing your parts. At occasions, such as when updating the Makerbot Desktop software, I print the calibration file and try to fit makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged 3h7 pins into the holes. That way, I know by how much Makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged have to increase the size of the features in my design.
The final makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged is that you cannot exchange 3D models that easily with other people. Depending on the printer, your features may show too much clearance or too much interference. Obviously, what is makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged for holes is also true for any kind of feature. I had to print my cuvette holder 5 times before getting it right! And it gets really frustrating when you try to print older models which used to work and now do not fit the same way anymore.
Also, I have noticed some odd things with the quality of larger models. For example, check these two gears below. They have the same tooth size 2 mm but different diameter.
Notice the details in the tooth for the larger model. My advice is then to avoid very large models and to keep makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged details on the order of the millimetre. DO NOT try to make very small details like small threading for fasteners and such. If you need thinner details, use a mix of 3D printing and hardware parts bolts, nuts… glued on the model.
Models makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged with the FDM technology will present a rough surface finish. In the past, with ABS, it was possible to post-process the models with acetone to actually dissolve the plastic to make it flat and shiny. With PLA, this is not possible anymore. Surface roughness can makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged important for engineering parts that slide on each other or that may accept mechanical sliding parts such as guide rods. I have spent numerous trials at filing models to get a better finish but without success.
During some time, I used heat the model with a lighter to melt the PLA and remove small filament hairs coming out of the model. However, this caused much problem such as complete melting or even burning! I do not recommend it anymore. Makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged would not recommend this approach because it may increase the size of the model which might makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged a problem in engineering and is also not applicable for inner features such as holes for guide tubes.
When you print a file, the design you sent to the software is first transformed into extruder movements operations, the g-code. With Makerbot, this occurs in the Makerbot Desktop software. The problem is that we have very little control on constraints applied to the algorithm. This may look like a small issue but is actually quite boring when it happens in high precision models.
Let us take, for instance, the holes calibration model:. The black lines represent the movement of the extruder head. You can makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged on the picture that the extruder head passes several times inside the holes. As a consequence, you will have some filament in your calibrated holes which is quite difficult to remove without damaging the actual and precise dimensions of our features. In the case of the calibration model, this results in slightly obtruded holes that will not accept the pin.
And this is the price you have to pay with all-in-one commercial solutions like the Makerbot Replicator: Because the models are made of plastic and may have an hollow structure due to the infill ratio, they do not have the stiffness or strength of metal parts. Also, by the very inherent process of deposition modelling, the parts are very brittle in their axial dimension and you can break them very easily.
I broke a few parts that were designed to be screwed into each other using large threads. About half of the models that I makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged where designed to replace Thorlabs opto-mechanical makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged but due to the very low rigidity of the plastic, they never performed well at all and caught a lot of vibration.
The same was also true for microscopy application. This is a large issue for 3D printing because, in my experience, it is totally useless for optics; even when used as a base support for stiffer elements made in aluminium.
On the picture below, a lot of wasted trials as reproducing opto-mechanical parts…. Almost immediately, I realized that the parts where absolutely not makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged and there was a lot of leakage inside the main body. I was able to fix this with tons of silicon and Teflon but makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged, I was not able to get more than 50 mbar pressure which is quite low.
I had to pour the solution after placing the stir bar and every time the stir bar lost the magnetic coupling, it went back on top of the solution. This is not too much of a problem as you can increase the infill ratio to have a bulk density close to 1. The real problem was that, after a while, the model started soaking in water. And this is much more problematic if you are using the stir bar for sensitive application such as stirring solution of yeasts because you would have to discard in a properly sealed container the stir bar immediately after usage.
The conclusion to these two experiments is that the models printed by the Makerbot Replicator or any other FDM technique are not airtight nor watertight and if you are planning to do so, you will have to use SLS printing technology with a post-processing such as a sealant.
One of the biggest errors that you can make with a successfully printed 3D model is to try to drill holes into it or to rectify it with any conventional machining techniques. I once tried to enlarge a hole due to a tolerance mistake with a drill bit. This was an horrible mistake as the PLA melted almost instantaneously with the friction of the tool!
The part was ruined and I had to spent hours to clean my drill bit. The only solution I found was to actually burn the PLA to remove it. So never, never, try drilling into a PLA model! If you need to add fasteners, do not use a tap but rather create an hexagonal hole in your makerbot replicator 2 extruder clogged to support a nut and fix it with a small point of epoxy glue see image below.
Still, if you want to fasten anything into your SLS printed model, you should use metal inserts in the tapped hole to prevent destroy it, even with very light torque. Price of printed models is usually the largest misunderstanding about 3D printing.
Let me tell you this: