Active topics Unanswered topics. You must login or register to post a reply. Evidently they think everyone carries one with them even outside metro NYC. Sorry, we've never even seen one here in the midwest.
Anyway, I used a card I though was close to that thickness and end up having to move the head even closer before I actually got even adhesion. Yes, I've checked, double checked, the table is level. I'm not looking to cook the PLA but feel there should be an optium temperature as apposed to a best guess temperature. Which brings me back to the gap guage. Makerbot black filament temperature it be better to specify an actual makerbot black filament temperature such as.
But to keep seeing "use a piece of makerbot black filament temperature to set the gap" with no thickness specified is a bit loose when so much else is listed as being so specific. A piece of paper is usually. The distance doesn't matter for leveling the bed, just that it is the same for all points. As for temperature, you can't really go by recommendations for other printers because the way they measure the temp is different.
Usually when they saythe Solidoodle equivalent will be I print exclusively PLA and have only tried 2 colors. I print on heated glass with painted on glue PVA - Elmer's glue - I use the fan mod - turned on after the second layer. Bed temperature 60 degrees. Extruder temp is I can extrude this down tobut it does not stick to itself and you get weak prints.
Black PLA - I have to print it hotter because it really doesn't want to stick to the bed otherwise. I use for the extruder. Amazon - from online fulfillment.
Slowly working some of the bugs out. I just completed a print that turned out the best makerbot black filament temperature far in PLA. I'm using a gold and I also have some silver on hand. Makerbot black filament temperature did this at a bed temp of 80 and a start extrude temp of then lowered it to The color and surface look great.
All edges are nice and even with no bulges anywhere. It was the Snowflake STL. I also found the issue with Repieter-Host telling me it could find the file when I asked it to run Slic3r. I had the first layer set thicker than the opening in the hot tip. Just happened to notice a warning message popup to that effect. If good I'll post a picture here later. Thanks for the feed back as it's been the only think keeping me makerbot black filament temperature drop-kicking the SD2 throught the goal post.
Rick, are you running at. I had issues with. Has anyone thought of going to. Just wondering if there would possible be some advantages to makerbot black filament temperature setting gaining good points of the other two and hopefully loosing the bad ones. I have only tried. In reading other forums - it seems that. I guess there is some optimal layer height below your nozzle size that is the tallest layers you are supposed to print lower is fine.
I think it has to do with squishing the layers properly. I am not sure I have the patience for. I get nearly perfect results with natural - black gets a fair amount of stringing makerbot black filament temperature even with a large retract setting 3mm.
I am using a z-lift of. I also lowered my makerbot black filament temperature and jerk settings in the firmware to reduce overshoot at the corners - that also has slowed my prints. It didn't make that much of a difference - mostly it makes me feel better because the printer shakes less. These are the facts and pieces of info I need to gather. I'm looking at adding a piece of 6" square mirrored glass.
I feel the mirror is important to be able to see the hot end for smears. I've makerbot black filament temperature using blue carpenter's tape with fairly good results. The Kapton tape on the bed worked great at first but doesn't seem to do the job by itself anymore. I prefer not to add Acetone mixtures here inside the house.
Your Elmers solution sound interesting plus I've read about using hair spray on the glass. I'd just like something that holds the parts but lets them snap free easily. I know, me and five thousand others want that. I can't believe someone hasn't written a book on this stuff yet, or at least, I haven't seen one. I've been down with the flu for the past week and don't yet feel much like venturing out. Plus today we got hit with makerbot black filament temperature of snow.
But, hopefully before the weekend I'll get a chance to get that mirror piece at least. I manufacture model kits and such, I'm retired, and the business has built quite large. I do a lot of detailing castings in both resin and white metal. Up until now I've been scrounging old castings and modifying or building stuff out of wood and metal as masters.
That's expensive and the fine material, FUD, has it's own issues. In order to save money on the printing you need to send them hollow pieces with drain holes as they use an oily wax as a support.
A bit messy and for vacuum RTV mold making those hollows must be filled. Thus I've been looking around for a different system but none of these Fused Filament printers will ever get fine enough in output I don't think, at least not down to the scale sizes I need anyway.
Irish - you'd be better off looking into something like the form1 depending on size you are working with. Sl will give much better resolution of prints.
Agree on the form1. The resolution is on another level. I have been trying to get my work to buy me one to go with my Solidoodle. Yes, I looked at an early version of this, it wasn't as refined as it is now. They still aren't shipping. Cost isn't bad but I don't think what they are quoting includes everything you need. There are a lot of prioritary items that must be bought from them and can't be found on the open makerbot black filament temperature. I did have a local dealer makerbot black filament temperature 3D printers offer me a demo unit yesterday.
Said the price would be below 10K. They are only 6 miles up the road plus they also have a division for doing printing for others. Some of it he's had to do multiple prints before getting it dialed in but he's reaching the point of only needing one or two test makerbot black filament temperature he has a finished piece good enough makerbot black filament temperature a master for resin casting.
One advantage of the Form1 is it's already a resin product and should easily be detailed. One thing that's almost impossible to do with 3D printing is to add woodgrain, knot holes, etc. Even if possible it would take way too long in a 3D software program. Only one real good master is needed to use to make a mold master. After that everything makerbot black filament temperature done with castings. My problem is age grinI'm 70, makerbot black filament temperature, well supose to be.
But like a lot of retirees these days I don't have a pension so I need to have an income. I started the company 3 years before retiring and it's 8 years old now. My modeling company has grown every year and we ship all over the World. Just the wife and I and we do 'everything' in house. This year we topped 1, invoices which is pretty good for a home based business. I'll probably use the SD2 to output in 1: From there I'll see how I want to repro it in actual scale. For those of you that are subscribed to this thread and have some insight?
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It would involve HR Views, back links, likes and comments.