Kicking The Tires Before You Buy: 3d Printers
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What do you do when money is short and catastrophy hits your 3D printer? About two weeks ago - End of Feb. Motivated by two things: Some parts are just bad. Makerbot mini filament jam error 81, your post is hilarious Thanks for sharing your experience. What is the CFM rating of the fan you are using to cool the heat sink?
Nice work Eric Edited 1 time s. I would like to see you conduct a simple test, if it's not too much of a bother. Take the aluminum heat sink off, and allow the fan to freely blow air past the SS barrel to see if you obtain the same performance.
Duct the air flow to the SS barrel with some aluminum foil, and makerbot mini filament jam error 81 without the aluminum heat sink. A2 Quote I would like to see you conduct a simple test, if it's not too much of a bother.
Quote bstott You say to duct air using aluminum foil? Foil on fan and not on SS? Makerbot mini filament jam error 81 bstott Possible Conclusion: You are probably right that I crippled my hot end with the large heatsink and should mimic what regpye and the original T-O-M of three makerbot mini filament jam error 81 ago had done. Quote bstott So - how long could I print with an aluminum heater block, stainless makerbot mini filament jam error 81 riser and a small aluminum heatsink without a fan?
Quote bstott Quessed Suggestion to others - keep a distance between the heater block and heatsink. The heatsink will then be smaller, further from heat source not drawing heat up the riser and would not require the active cooling from a fan. Quote If there is no air flow around the heat sink, energy cannot be transferred. Natural convection requires free flow of air over the heat sink. If fins are not aligned verticallyor if fins are too close together to allow sufficient air flow between them, the efficiency of the heat sink will decline.
A2 Thanks for your inputs. I'll address this time without cut and paste I'm tired today. The benefit, or not, is that there is air flow all around the riser and the backstop of the heatsink will allow more air forced around the heatsink from the fan's output. This small part of assembly was thought about. Otherwise I'd have pulled out the dremel. As you noted the fins are too big and the back is too large too. In Heat Transfer class I'd finished a manual by hand calculus analysis of cooling fins and was remembering that their effectiveness dimishes over length.
Thus, in designing components you try to maximize efficiencies and not to waste material or use too much space. Here all was neglible.
The SS riser was? And the overall assembly size is all relatively small and fits fine on my machine. The heatsink was drilled and reamed to be interference fit press fit with the SS riser.
The two parts were hydraulic pressed together. You are likely right about it having benifitted to have smoothed and polished the SS riser specifically at the mating of the heatsink but, considering the application I feel the benefit to makerbot mini filament jam error 81 negligible.
There would have been much more cooling surface area lost on the riser by smoothing its entire surface and too hard to polish only the fin mating spots. As is - The soft aluminum heatsink press fit against the hard SS riser will possibly conform the heatsink to the imperfect surface of the riser.
If true, this will microscopically increase the mating surface area between the two parts but, negligible to over all heat transfer benefits. Just easier for production. In this application the rough cast SS piping surface also contributes a larger amount of external cooling surface area to the riser than a smooth rod. Good for my active cooling? Oh, I cheated in my build by going to a local machine shop for the assembly of the riser and heatsink. In test - Me and my hand drill destroyed one heatsink.
I used to have tools. Now, it is - hand drill, dremel, child's hammer, a few hex keys, pliers and some screw drivers. So, with this application it works very well with the small fan. Grabbed fan from scraps. It was small and worked. If for a passive application it would be better to design vertical fins rather than horizontal?
Since the heatsink is full length of the SS riser it will contribute to the draw of heat from the heater block up the riser surface? The analysis would be interesting to see how much assistance, without the fan, the heatsink contributes to propogating the heat up the transistion zone. I would like a thermal image to see but, no such equipment. And, without the fan, the backstop of the heatsink will trap air to heat rather than cool. You wrote about heatsink placement - yeah - since no math is being done here and no computer analysis there is only guess and hope.
As I'd shared makerbot mini filament jam error 81 an earlier post, the hot end will readily jam without the fan. But, then, just as rapidly cool and unjam once the fan is applied.
Makerbot mini filament jam error 81 questions for testing are good if I were to design to produce. Say, since the parts are cheap and easy to assemble - If you do not have to involve a paid machinist - you are availed to some good simple experiments. Then, not having any decent drill press, I paid a local machinist to drill and ream the heatsink and press fit the two parts.
I would have been better to calculate the likely trials of this rebuild and simply bought a J-Head instead. Maybe I am better off with the hard route? Some silver heat sink epoxy might be easier than swaging the heatsink. The other easy way to do it if you have boreing or reaming tools is to make the hole in the heatsink a little smaller than the diameter of the stainless tube then press them together while the heatsink is heated up up to expand the hole.
Quote bstott The heatsink was drilled and reamed to be interference fit press fit with the SS riser. Quote bstott Air flow?
Quote bstott In this application the rough cast SS makerbot mini filament jam error 81 surface also contributes a larger amount of external cooling surface area makerbot mini filament jam error 81 the riser than a smooth rod.
Quote bstott was remembering that their effectiveness dimishes over length. To get half the thermal resistance, the heatsink would need to be 4 times longer.
Quote bstott If for a passive application it would be better to design vertical fins rather than horizontal? Quote bstott the backstop of makerbot mini filament jam error 81 heatsink will trap air to heat rather than cool. Quote bstott - Heat Flow? I will makerbot mini filament jam error 81 a reply. Just too tired to think it But, you could be thinking your air insulator Not when open air flow and active cooling with fan CFM.
Just give a day. I have not built this as a passive unit and it was not intended to be such. Svdharma Silver heat sink epoxy? What about the cost and sourcing? Is it cheap and easy to get in small quantities? The fan is within 5mm directly in front of the open fins and blows towards the solid back.
Air is an insulator: It has a high capacity to remove heat. That is why aircooled engines on motorcycles, automobiles, and airplanes work so well. They had a small circular aluminum heatsink with vertical fins slipped over their SS riser.
The hot end has a SS heating block heated with two 5Ohm 5W resistors. It worked quite well. IF, you built it as they instructed. But, note that years ago we were not printing for 3 hours makerbot mini filament jam error 81 at a time and back to back.
So, this passive cooled style of hot end worked for our, then, very long one hour prints. TRUE because what is attached to the riser is four individual pieces of aluminum. NOT because my heatsink is a system and connected at one end makerbot mini filament jam error 81 the fins.
As a passive unit it does not work well because of the horizontal fin orientations and the air is trapped and acts as an insolator but, my idea was always active and thus it works extremely well. The backstop assures that air circulates on all sides of the SS. But, remember this was a hack.
I thought some simple science and grabbed some 'should work' parts. It does work - I think The brass nozzle shank burst today. It has now suffered a broken riser from their faulty design and a bubbling PEEK thermal barrier because the Thermistor slipped out A tiny bit my fault. And now their brass nozzle bursting! Well as for my hack together hot end.
